Miscellaneous FAQs
Question:
How do I remove an ignition switch in a GM Column?
Answer:
To remove a switch on a GM steering column, un-plug both electrical connectors then remove the two mounting bolts holding the switch in place. To remove the switch, lift up the switch while removing the activating rod. Install the new switch by first inserting the rod in the opening on the side of the switch then bolt the switch back to the column, Insert the two plugs (they only can go one way) and test for proper operation. If you find the switch doesn't act exactly as new, re-adjust the switch position with the two mounting bolts.
Question:
I have a 1957 Ford F100. I am interested in the GV-18 wiring kit. the information states that all you need is the GM switches to plug into the harness. What do I do with Ford stuff on the dash and other switches too? Is it compatable with Dakota digital instruments?
Answer:
We offer the SWK-2J switch kit to supply our customers with new switches which snap into our harness kits but there is no reason you couldn't use your original switches with the GV-18.
Since all our wires are labeled and color coded, you could remove our headlamp switch connector and use your Ford unit. The GV-18 can be used with a stock Ford ignition switch as well by using the same method.
Dakota digital is the easiest way to go with the gauge wiring.
Question:
With so many different switch knobs, which one should I pick?
Answer:
These switch knobs are all universal due to their construction; however, the Elite and Hot Rod knobs are usually used in an early (pre-1935) rod whereas the Mercury is used in rods and customs (after 1934). The knurled knob is generally used for off-road
Question:
I'm looking for some blue faced gauges for the dash of my 1938 Plymouth, know of anything?
Answer:
I believe that some of the larger gauge manufacturers offer blue backlighting for their gauges. Try VDO and Autometer.
Question:
Do you have the original wiring harness for a 1948 Plymouth Restoration.
Answer:
Check in HEMMINGS MAGAZINE for original harnesses. We do wiring for
modified cars and later model GM cars.
Question:
What do you have (or can you build) for a Meyers Manx Dune Buggy on '71 VW Chassis
w/ '72-'74 steering column, plus lights, wipers, signals, etc. to
be street-legal?
Answer:
You could use one of our custom K-40 kits. We would set it up for your needs.
Question:
I need to locate a complete wiring harness from bumper to
bumper for a 1972 International 4-door pickup.
Answer:
Your best bet would be to use our GV-10 wiring kit in your truck.
Question:
What harness would you recommend as a replacement in a 1975 Dodge D100 Power Wagon? I would like to keep it as close
to stock as possible.
Answer:
Your best bet would be our GV-10 harness kit with the SWK-2 switches.
Question:
I own a 1960 Dodge Town Panel. It originally came with a 6 cylinder motor. I removed it and put in a 318 cubic inch motor out of a 1975 Dodge Dart. I saved the wiring harness from the engine firewall to the motor plus all the relays and all the electronic ignition parts from the Dart. The Dodge Panels instrument panel is all original. Can you custom build me a complete wiring harness including fuse block to go from instrument from the Dodge Panel to the 318.
Answer:
We supply kits for various applications such as yours. I would suggest the K-40 custom kit which includes the special wiring for your Chrysler engine. These run in the area of $335.00 plus shipping. We do have less expensive kits which require more labor to install (ie GV-10) but cost less up front.
Question:
I need to replace the complete wiring harness.
The truck is 1951 Dodge Pickup, all original with a flat head six and six volt
charging system
Answer:
See HEMMINGS MOTOR NEWS for info on people who manufacture
replacement harnesses for your truck.
Question:
I have a 1994 Ford 4.6 OHC engine. I want to put it into a 1972
Triumph Stag. I have no wiring harness for this engine. Can you help?
Answer:
There is a possibility that we could re-work your stock 4.6L
harness. This would be a special job requiring extra time and
money. If you have the stock harness, let me know and I'll work up a price.
Question:
I need an aftermarket engine harness for a 99 Trans Am moter to put this drive
train into a street rod.
Answer:
We can make a simple 4 wire hook-up harness to put your engine into
a rod but we need to know if the transmission is an automatic
(4l60e) or a manual.
Question:
My 1990 Dodge Daytona 2.5 liter Hatchback caught on fire and I have been told that it
needs a replacement fuel injection wiring harness. I have searched
the web for one and had no luck. I would greatly appreciate any
help you would be willing to offer.
Answer:
If Chrysler doesn't have your harness, then you'll need to search
the junkyards. Try to find a large yard near you which has a
"teletype" system that they use to search through other large yards
as well as their own for a part.
Question:
I just received my fan controller and today I received some additional
information about my fan that has yet to be installed. It will pull 35 amps
at 12 volts and 50 amps continuous at 14.5 volts. Will this fan controller
hold up? I see that it has markings on the unit for 30A. Is that the limit
for a continuous load? Do you have one of these that will handle a 50 amp
continuous load?
Answer:
The relay contacts are rated at 30 amperes, continuous, 50 amperes is out of range of our relay.
I have never seen a single fan require so much current. If you actually have two fans, you should use our DR-1 Dual Relay setup to operate both fans from our controller
Question:
I have a 1949 Studebaker Commander and I am looking into restoring it. The stock wiring is shot and I ripped it out about three years ago. By doing so, I shot myself in the foot. I have been unable to find a decent wiring harness for my car. I have a new harness for pre-1950 coupes but it doesn't fit my particular car. The wires are too short to connect. I am interested in keeping the car for the next 80+ years so I want a quality harness that will last
Answer:
The first thing I would do would be to page through HEMMINGS MOTOR NEWS magazine to look for a manufacturer who specializes in Studebaker wiring.
Since your car is "6 volts", there are difficulties in using a "wiring kit" to re-wire a stock vehicle. These kits (ours included) were designed for 12 volt operation with an alternator used in place of a generator. Since you're planning to keep the Stude for a lifetime, consider updating the electrical system to 12 volts. This path requires new 12 volt lamps, charging and ignition systems but allows you to install a modern radio, A/C etc. You can keep you old gauges by using our voltage reducers.
Question:
I am looking for a 15 to 18 circuit trunk mounted harness with a GM
steering column plug. Do you have such a thing?
Answer:
Sorry, we don't offer a trunk mounted kit due to the extra long
wiring which gets hot and loses power
Question:
I need a wiring diagram of how to wire a out side
switch (in the bed of the truck) so i can roll the window down to
open the door
Answer:
There are several manufacturers which make a remote door/window
opening kits. See Street Rodder magazine to find these guys. They
should be able to fix you up with a kit to operate power windows
from the bed.
Question:
Is the Timesaver a good choice for a fiberglass body?
Answer:
The fiberglass bodies are especially suited because of the
built-in "ground" system in the TimeSaver. This "ground system"
extends from under the dash all the way to rear of the vehicle. The
front section (engine & lamps) use the frame/engine as a ground.
Question:
I have a dash mounted ignition switch with a seperate push button starter. Do you have starting switches that can simply turn the ignition system ON/OFF without having the start switch in the key form?
Answer:
You can use our dash ignition switch in conjunction with a "pushbutton" switch to crank the engine or use our dash switch as normal as: ACC OFF RUN START positions.
Question:
In the K32, Instrument wiring kit, is it possible to rewire an instrument cluster using 12 volts?
Answer:
I wouldn't advise you to spend the money on the K-32 if you're going to re-use your old gauges. You will need "voltage drops" to reduce the voltage from 12v down to 6v for each electrical gauge then use our standard K-40 kit gauge wires to wire the stock gauges.
Question:
What are the differences between K40B, K40DB, K40B-K32?
Answer:
The K-40 is the basic custom wiring kit using the PDP-1B stainless fuse panel. The K-40DB is an extension of the K-40 that uses a quick disconnect for the engine harness and one for the rear of the vehicle. The K-40-K-32 is a K-40 with a quick disconnect harness for your modern gauges.
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