Electrical FAQs

Question:  I am installing a 2 battery power supply system in the trunk of my 55 Chevy. I want to make sure I get a good ground for the electrical system and I had a quick question for you.

Does anyone make a grounding post that passes through the sheet metal of the car where I can hook up the (-) battery cable on top and hook a grounding strap that goes to the frame on the bottom side? I have seen them that are insulated for positive battery cables and I was wondering if anyone made one that is not insulated.

I know I can use a plain bolt but I would like a clean installation that looks professional and is efficient. I had my wife order a grounding block from you recently and I plan on using that for the digital gauges and audio/video system that will be installed in the front of the vehicle.

I would also like to know if anyone makes a post that would screw into the frame that you can attach a grounding strap.

Answer:  I don't know of a black "feed-thru" post for your 55 but this is how I handle the "grounding" on a vehicle like your 55:

What I do is to weld a stud onto the frame near the battery. I connect the battery (-) directly to the stud with a heavy cable. I then use the frame as the ground and weld another stud near the engine bell housing where I attach a heavy "grounding" wire from the stud to a bell housing bolt (or starter motor bolt). Use our fuse panel "GND" or our GND-1 kit to connect the grounds under the dash.

Secondly, at your lamps, make certain that each lamp housing is securely "grounded" to your body and that the body is grounded to the frame. This may require a separate "lamp ground wire" connected to a stud on the frame to insure a proper ground. Additionally, if you have a problem with drilling a hole through your new paint, use individual ground wires from our GND-1 block to each lamp.

The door switches are another consideration. Make certain that they are secured to the door frame otherwise use a two terminal door ground switch for the dome lamps. I find that sheet metal screw make a good ground connection when screwed into the frame.

Use our "LAMP TEST AND TROUBLE SHOOTING" sheet (yellow) which came with your kit to determine if you have a "ground" problem at your lamp socket. Also read the "ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT GROUNDS".

Question:  I want to change my ignition system from points to electronic, any suggestions?

Answer:  The simpliest way to change from "points" to "electronic" would be the installation of a GM HEI distributor into your Camaro IF there is enough room between the firewall and the distributor cap. Remember, the engine will rock towards the passenger side of the engine compartment so you must have enough room to allow the distributor cap to clear the firewall when the engine is torqued over.

As a second choice or if you have a high compression performance engine, go with a capacitive discharge ignition system which uses a small distributor (for clearance) with an external ignition box and coil. These are very effective when firing plugs in a high performance engine. Make certain to select a matching "CD" coil to go with the new ignition module.

Question:  Guys, I am interested in the new fan control, I have your harness in the car now, can this be added?

Answer:  A new fan controller can very easily be added, just a couple of electrical connections to be done.  If you're using electronic gauges, use our FC-2PG. With mechnical gauges, use the FC-2PE fan control.

Question:  Where can I find 6-volt turn signal flashers (two prong & three prong) to adapt turn sgnals to my stock 34?

Answer:  Turn signal flashers operate on current, not voltage as most people believe. Some operate on less current than others so you may need to test a few part numbers. We use 552s in our kits because these take only a small amount of current to operate

Question:  With a fully charged battery I am getting alot of starter drag. is this because of old wires?

Answer:  There are several causes for slow cranking even with a fresh battery.

1. Poor electrical connections at the battery posts, starter motor and to the frame or too small wiring between battery and engine.

2. Poor relay and/or starter solenoid contacts.

3. Excessive cylinder pressure during cranking due to high compression and/or improper camshaft timing.

4. Excessive friction at starter motor etc due to misalignment or bad bearings.

Question:  I have one dim head lamp on the drivers side of my rodeo. I would like to find a new wire harness for the head lights.

Answer:  Check the "ground" connection and terminals at that lamp before replacing harness. The lamp itself could be faulty as well.

Question:  I have removed the dash on my 1966 Pontiac Lemans to find a variety of added wiring. The biggest problem is a large amount of the wires have been "fried". From what I have seen a new dash harness will cost me about $350.00. I can't afford that so I want to use as much of the existing wiring as possible. I would like some advice on what I can do to replace melted wiring, or at least where to find a cheaper harness.

Answer:  Replace one wire at a time. Splice and solder each connection.

Question:  I need info on the oil and transmission temp. gauge and if I can use one (1) gauge and a toggle switch for both.

Answer:  If both gauges used the same part number for the "sender", then you can share the gauge via a toggle switch.

Question:  I am looking for the button cap (mushroom) connectors that fit into the bottom of the 65 El Camino factory instrument light sockets.

Answer:  If you're looking for the small dash lamp assemblies (lamp socket and terminals), we have them. They come in both a single and a two wire assembly. These cost $3.50 each. We do not sell the terminals separately.

Question:  I'm need to wiring my '71 Camaro COMPLETELY and been looking at your GV kits on-line. My question is: do I still need to get any additional harnesses, sockets, plugs or terminals to change the system completely. I read I still need the switches, which wouldn't be a problem, but my concern is with the sockets. I want to be prepared as to have a hassle free installation.

Answer:  Many of our plugs will properly fit your stock switches. You will however, need sockets for your park and tail lamps and to re-use some of the dash switches (A/C, Heater etc). Its often best to replace portions of your harness (ie forward lamps) with new wiring assemblies

Question:  I have a 1 wire alternator and I do not think this is where the charge wire is supposed to go. Do I tie the charge wire from the alternator to the line that says "To starter solenoid post or battery post"? Also could you e-mail me a new schematic and possibly a wire diagram for turn signals to the panel and on for a GM tilt? Thanks, I am looking forward to using my Centach panel!

Answer:  The alternator (one wire) battery "BAT" post gets connected to your battery (+) terminal post or to the starter motor post where the battery (+) wire is attached. We can send out our catalog which describes various kits which use the PDP-1B. We sell individual wiring kits (W-33 to W-40) which go with that fuse panel if you need them.

Question:  I'm building a dune buggy and I need a wiring kit. I have seen your basic universal kit and I was wondering if I use your dimmer switch, headlight switch and universal ignition but I have a stock VW signal switch with 3 wires. Could I use your kit combined with mine and still have it work?

Also, I would be running a voltage regulator and a generator, would it still work?

Answer:  You should purchase our GV-10 kit along with our SWK-2 switches. You will be on your own with that generator however as our kit uses a Delco alternator.

Question:  Will your GV-10J fit my 1971 CJ (maybe a willys) model jeep. If so do you have this product in stock?

Answer:  The GV-10J was designed specifically to wire a pre-76 CJ-5. It could wire an older Willys as well.

Question:  I have a 400 pontiac big block under the hood of my 1982 Trans Am and I'm not happy with the wiring in the car. I would like to replace my dash with an after market dash designed by myself an would like to know if you have a harness to fit just what I want. I would like to keep all lights for driving purposes and have a interior light and dash lights with my radio. I would like to be able to buy my own tacs for the car an have them wired all in at the same time.

Answer:  We can supply several kits for your Trans Am. You can use our GV-10 or GV-18 kit. These kits will give all the connections you want.

Question:  I have a problem with my 1992 Chevy Cavilier. For some reason there are no signal lights or brake lights. I was wondering if you would be able to tell me what the problem is.

Answer:  First thing I'd do is to check the fuses. You probably have a shorted wire back to the stop lamps which would blow two fuses. The only other thing would be a faulty turn signal switch in your column

Question:  I'm re-wiring my 944 Porsche's fuel injection. The factory incorporates several questionable connections to get from 8 to 2 wires at the ECM/DME. I'm eliminating those potential trouble spots by running 8 individual wires all the way back to the DME.

I already have new injector caps, boots, and connectors. What I can't find is a suitable, fairly high temp, sleeve to protect the new wires from heat and wear. I don't want tape, I need something small/tight as I have to run 4 sleeves (one pair of wires per) through the narrow conduit between the fuel rail and the fuel rail cover. Any suggestions?

Answer:  You could use some high-temp "split loom". The high temp stuff has a green tracer on the loom

Question:  I have a wiring harness for a 66 Bronco, that I am trying to install, I have a custom alternator, so I am trying to find out about the red Batt. wire, can you tell me if this is right? The red Batt. wire goes from the ignition switch, through the alt gauge, to the + side of the starter solenoid.

Answer:  The red BATTERY supplies current from the your alternator to the battery. The red wire ALWAYS attaches to the BAT post at the rear of the alternator. Its the regulator you need to worry about unless it's a one-wire alternator.

Question:  I have gone through two headlight switches recently in my 1988 GMC/Grumman Olsen Kurbmaster. When the switch goes, the headlights don't work and if I turn them on when the engine is running, the engine quits. I have been having trouble getting anwsers about this problem.

Answer:  Sounds as though you need to see an electrical specialist or your "Kurbmaster" dealer in your area as we are not familiar with this system.

Question:  What is the name of the type of terminal that slides down onto the threaded stud commonly found on fenderwell mounted starter solenoids? This is the female, booted type that makes a mechanical and electrical connection without a nut. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Answer:  These are "molded" female bullet connectors. I call them "FORD" type because they like to use them. We use them in some of our kits where there is a smooth (without threads) round post. If you have a threaded stud, use a ring terminal and locking nut.

Question:  What is a lugless connector?

Answer:  Lugless connectors use a unique clamping action to trap bare wire tightly to provide a perfect connection without resorting to crimping individual electrical terminals on each wire. All that is necessary is for you to strip the wire back one eighth-inch, insert it into the terminal strip opening, and then screw down the holding fastener.

Question:  How do I get more fuse panel connections without splicing?

Answer:  The FS-4 fuse panel is perfect for auxiliary power. Each panel has two power inputs and eight outputs that handle a maximum of 60 amperes. Each ATC fuse feeds two lugless outputs.

Question:  What is best way to splice wire?

Answer:  The best way to make a splice is to crimp the wires to a copper splice, solder and heatshrink. Butt splices (red, blue and yellow) are fairly effective when crimped properly. You could put some heatshrink over the butt splice for added protection.

Question:  Can I get GM style theater lighting for my car?

Answer:  The inexpensive IL-2 Fader operates similar to GM style theater lighting, controlling your interior and courtesy lamps from your door switches and from the headlamp switch. Whenever your open a door, the interior lamps come on and then fade out approximately eight seconds after the door is closed.

Question:  How do you hookup the FC2-P, is it easy?

Answer:  The unit uses a simple three-wire hook up to connect to the back of your electric temperature gauge and two additional wires to the fan motor. A tiny LED lights whenever the fan is "on", and an additional wire is provided to operate the fan via your A/C system or by remote toggle switch. Even if boiling over is not a problem, the FC-2P allows you to regulate your engine temperature to where your engine runs its best.

Question:  I'm putting together a '54 Chevy and changing everything to 12 volt (aftermarket gauges and radio) except the heater. Will your ZR-2 Volt drop work with the hot lead to the heat blower switch or do you have anything that will?

Answer:  Our ZR-2 voltage drop will only handle .3 ampere while your blower motor will take more than that. Your best bet would be to use a BALLAST resistor in series with the wire to the motor to drop the voltage down to a reasonable level. We have several values of ballasts here.