Battery Problems
Webmasters Note: This is a multiple email message between one of our customers and tech support. I left it in this format because not only does it revile good inforation about diagnostics, it teaches a lesson that sometimes the best way to beat a problem is by good old detective work.
I need a headlight switch socket for a 1977 Ford LTD II? I bought a new switch and the battery drains overnight? I removed switch and the socket is brown(burnt) and distorted. I don't how much harness is bad or can just the socket be replaced?
It sounds as though you have more problems that just the headlamp switch socket.
I don't have a socket for you so you must cut one from another harness and splice it to your wires. Possibly, Ford could help you but I doubt it.
We use new model headlamp switches and connectors in our Bronco kits to replace your old style. We could supply one of these if you wish.
With a brand new die-hard battery and the headlight switch removed, the battery drained within 3 days? I don't think the headlight socket is the problem. I just looked there because after I changed the switch the battery kept dying, but I'm not sure it wasn't doing that before to some degree.
I can't get any sparking at the battery terminal when I remove and touch the post? It seems like if it was draining that fast, I should be able to see/hear/notice some drain...
The car has been garaged all it's life and is very good condition. I just have this weird battery problem that seemed to start with blinking headlights? Thanks for returning my e-mail....
Check all the electrical stuff which has constant battery power such as the brake lamps/switch, hazard flasher, dome, clock, alternator regulator, the alternator itself. Use a current meter and one of the battery leads to measure current drain with everything off. I would expect the current to be near zero; certainly under 100 milliamperes.
Remove one fuse at a time until the current shown on the meter drops to near zero. Trace out this circuit to discovery what device is using the current. Fix that!
Good Luck
Thanks for the good luck, cause I needed it!
I took the car back to SEARS since I had just put in one of their batteries, they hooked up some machine and said nothing was being drawn on the battery. They mentioned a local shop and they charged me $30 and said it must be intermittent and is going to be hard to find. So they couldn't find a problem either.
So I took off the Negative side of the battery and used a taillight bulb and a jumper wire between the Negative post and the Negative cable, yes, there was light. I took out all fuses and still had light. I disconnected the alternator and the light went off. replacing the alternator kept the light off.
Now, my ALT light came on. Brand new alternator and the ALT light is on???? So being an old Ford I decided some other part must have gotten jealous. I took off the voltage regulator and shook it. It sounded like a burned out light bulb..
Changing the voltage regulator made the ALT light go out, which makes no sense to me.
BUT NOW every thing works! My radio was not picking any thing up and now it does. Some other accessory lights would light dimly, the blinkers and flashing would act weird sometimes. BUT all of these weird symptoms have vanished.
The car now starts fine even after sitting for days. So the bottom line is..
They got all that fancy equipment that's just about worthless, when I chased the short with an old taillight bulb and a jumper wire...
THANKS FOR RETURNING MY E-MAIL you gave me the idea.
Simple Test Lamp
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